Maybe seeing is persistently bad (it can happen), or maybe the scope is off-collimation. It looks super-sharp and high-contrast at 136x but it's kind of small. When did you last clean the eyeball end of your eyepieces? One thing that is certainly NOT a factor is the central obstruction. What can we expect to see with a telescope with a 70mm aperture and a 10mm eyepiece? These rings are still stars, but your telescope is so out of focus that they’re blurred out. I have to wait for a clear night to confirm and fix the problem. Check Howie Glatter's site - he makes some of the most precise collimators currently available: Regardless, just learn any method you can and apply it. Yes, the obstruction does matter a little, but not to the extent that Internet mythology would have you believe. The eyepieces are what magnify and focus the light for your eyes. Can you easily see the Cassini division in Saturn's rings? It's always a good idea to let the scope "breathe" outside for an hour before you even begin to observe. After you find the focus control, point your telescope at a distant target ( not the … You can find the focal plane of your telescope quite easily. Heat waves seem to shimmer across the Moon. You have to keep looking for a while to see it. Also, it's important that the scope is in perfect collimation. I'm using the Celestron NexStar Evolution 8 Schmidt-Cassegrain Telescope. http://www.deepskywatch.com/Articles/make-bahtinov-mask.html. It's random. Jupiter works best at not so high magnification, otherwise the contrast gets too low. It will tell you if it's visible at the moment. Go on Wolfram Alpha and type in Great Red Spot. It's like zones of latitude similar to Jupiter's equatorial belts, but very, very pale and faded. http://www.wolframalpha.com/input/?i=great+red+spot. Try not to choose a star that is too bright, like Sirius, or it might affect your precision later. Astable multivibrator: what starts the first cycle. I re-adjust focus each time I change eye pieces, but the best I can get at the stronger magnifications is still very blurry compared to 20mm. A lot of people are not aware of it. The focal plane in a DSLR is much further away than the focal plane of most eyepieces, so the focuser doesn't have enough in-travel to accommodate a camera. If you get the exact same results all the time, and the image never improves even after many weeks of trying, then perhaps it's not seeing that's the culprit. If you use the plastic caps and you're careful when handling eyepieces, the other end should stay clean a very long time. Around 140x ... 180x should give you decent contrast in your aperture. I think that's the problem - I ordered this telescope online and it was shipped UPS, maybe in shipping the alignment got screwed up. Telescope won't focus.? If you ever look through your telescope and see faint rings of light instead of sharp dots, don’t panic! If the telescope is massively miscollimated, you'll get an improvement immediately. Planetary observations: what to expect from the Powerseeker 50AZ? To reach focus with the telescope also depends on many outside factors like current seeing conditions or type of the telescope. Some well-made refractors are more or less immune to it, but most reflectors need periodic collimation. 7. It's a good idea to google around for various collimation techniques, there's so many of them. Rare is the night (at most sites) when any telescope, no matter how large its aperture or perfect its optics, can resolve details finer than 1 arcsecond. But seeing changes with the seasons, or day to day, hour to hour, or indeed from one second to another. The only object I could barely see was the moon. Point the scope at a bright star and defocus. By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service, privacy policy and cookie policy. Thank you for this detailed answer! To learn more, see our tips on writing great answers. Steve Owens is a freelance science writer and presenter with a passion for astronomy. But when I go to 10mm or 6mm, it gets bigger and blurrier. It also helps with regular observations - I use it almost every time I observe, it makes focusing so much easier. (All telescopes are a little different, so you should look in your telescope instruction manual to help you find your focus control.) rev 2020.11.24.38066, The best answers are voted up and rise to the top, Astronomy Stack Exchange works best with JavaScript enabled, Start here for a quick overview of the site, Detailed answers to any questions you might have, Discuss the workings and policies of this site, Learn more about Stack Overflow the company, Learn more about hiring developers or posting ads with us. By slightly adjusting their position, you can change the focus so that blurry stars become sharp points of light. You adjust the focus near the eyepiece tube, usually by turning a small knob or a dial. I can never see the Cassini division, and Saturn looks equally soft in the center and on the edges, there's never any surface detail at all. Mars will be peach coloured, but only slightly larger than a pinpoint. If yes, then you're probably in okay shape (collimation and seeing), you're just not used to the softness at higher magnification. You'll often hear on the Internet how Cassegrain instruments, or other scopes with a large central obstruction (secondary mirror) are supposedly less "sharp" than scopes without a central obstruction, or ones with a very small obstruction. It is caused by the atmosphere, and in this case, it is hard to focus so focusing aid will help you with that. Do I have to say Yes to "have you ever used any other name?" Dobsonian telescopes probably require most frequent collimation. Why does Chrome need access to Bluetooth? Several things could cause what you describe: Seeing (turbulence) might be bad.

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